Shoe machine



Jun@ 2G, 195@ A. R. MoRRlLL 2,512,436

SHOE MACHINE Filed May 27, 1947 5 Sheets-Sheet l June 20, 1950 A. R. MORRILL sHQE MACHINE Filed May 27, 1947 5 Sheets-Sheet 2 A. R. MORRILL SHOE MACHINE June 20, 1950 Filed May 27, 1947 3 Sheets-Sheet 3 Noemi )zer Alfred R Marfil Patented June 20, 1,950

sHoE MACHINE Alfred R. Morrill, deceased, late of Woodstock,

Vt., by Ruth W. Morrill, administratrix, Woodstock, Vt., assignor to United Shoe Machinery Corporation, Flemingt of New Jersey on, N. J., a corporation Application May 27, 1947, serial N'. 750,795 12 claims. (c1. 11a-252) j The present invention relates to improvements in shoe machines, and more particularly to an yimproved means for controlling and for severing .the thread upon the completion of a sewing loperation about the shoe.

The invention is herein disclosed in a preferred i The several cooperating instrumentalities of ythe machine include a channel guide and welt guide for positioning and guiding the shoe being operated upon, an inseam shoe sewing mechanism, and a rotary tubular knife of large diameter which is located adjacent to the sewing mechanism in position to trim the last completed stitch of the seam, and an automatic shoe support consisting of a shoe supporting jack and supporting and actuating connections for moving the jack to cause the shoe to be presented to the operating means and to transfer the operation about the shoe, and automatically acting mechanism for Veifecting and for controlling the relative movements of the jack and shoe supported thereon and the operating means.

It is a principal object of the invention to provide for use in a machine of the class described having sewing mechanism which includes a hook needle, a looper, a thread nger movable sub- "of the casing broken awayl and l*sectioned and stantially in the line of feed, and a channel guide 1 for guiding the work, a novel and improved thread severing device which is well adapted to cooperate with the elements of the sewing mechanism to control and to sever a portion of the thread leading from the work.

It is a further object of the invention to provide in a machine of the class described having an inseam trimming knife adapted for trimming a portion of the inseam held togetherby the last 4.0" l Ajfloor section l0 housing principally the loil sump v and various" foot treadle controlswof the machine,

upper and Welt of a welt f ly the parts shownin Fig. 3'; and

. 2 with a supporting surface formed thereon arranged to be engaged by ya portion of the thread extending from the work, and a thread cutter which is movablein cooperative relationV to the channel guide to sever a portion of the thread engaged against said surface.

The several features of they invention consist also in the devices, combinations and arrangement of parts hereinafter described and claimed, which together with the advantages to be obtained thereby will be readily understood by vone skilled in the art from the following description taken in connection with the accompanying drawings, in which: o

Fig. 1 is a viewin left side elevation of an automatic machine for-sewing together theinsole, shoe, and fortrimming the sewn inseam;

Fig'. 2 is 'an enlarged detail view With a portion with the inseam trimming cutter and its supporting 'structure removed to illustrate portions 'of the driving and stopping mechanism of the machinaA portions of the sewing and thread handling mechanism including the inseam trimming knife, and the connections from the driving and stopping mechanism for actuating the knife;

Fig. 3 isan enlargeddetail lView of the parts vof the sewing head shown in'Fig. 2, but with the thread severingknife `in its advanced thread severing position;

Fig. 4 a view in front elevation of substantial- 'Fig 5 is a sectional plan viewtaken on the line The automatic shoe machine illustrated in the which is made up of "several sections including a jia'middle section `I2 housing lprincipally the jack 1 supporting mechanism andl pattern mechanism completed stitches of the seam, a device for conl trolling and for severing the thread which includes means operable to cause the thread to be severed upon completion of the last stitch and prior to a further` relative movement of the shoe of the machine, a head section I"4 housing therein l thewelt sewing mechanismand inseam trimming 'mechanismwtogether with "parts of the driving l' andi stopping mechanism'` of the machine, and'a operating devices and shoe to iinish-trim the end portion of the inseam. With these and other objects in View as may 'hereinafter appear, a feature of the invention consists in the arrangement of the channel guide top section' IG supporting therein the driving motor I8'and reduction driving gears therefrom connectingjwith the driving and stopping mecha- ,v nism'), i v i "In theillustrated machine, thefshoe supported on a lastfis; carried on a sho'e vsupporting jack which'ior vsimplicity of illustration is indicated a horizontally extending arm 26 forming part of` a lever supporting assembly for the jack not specically illustrated or described, inasmuch as the details of this mechanism form no part of the invention, and are fully set forth inthe Morrill application above referred to. y

The driving and stopping mechanism for the machine as best shown in Figs. 1 and 2 of the drawings, comprises the electric motor |8, the armature of which carries a gear S (see Fig. 2) Which meshes with a gear 32 carried on a sleeve element 311 together with. a second gear 36 so that the. two gearsturn as a, unit. A planetary transmission mounted in a housing 38, and a one revolutionY eccentric mechanism including an eccentric strap lillv carried on an eccentric and eccentric supportingshaft not specifically shown, are mounted directly beneath and are adapted to be driven frornthe sleeve element 315|. `The gear 36V meshes with a. gear .lill formed integrally.y with a driving element 46 of the main clutch which is of the cone type and includes a vertically shiftable driven clutch member 48. The driven clutch member i8 is arrangedto act through a downwardly extending drive shaft 50, clutch 52, shaft 54 and the reduction gearing generally indicated inrFig. 2, to. drive a pattern cam shaft whichlacts `to impart the, desiredV turning, tipping, and feeding movements to the jack.

The driven clutch member 48 acts through a 'driving gear 64- formedintegrally therewith, and av cooperating gear 66 to drive the ktransversely extending sewing cam shaft 68. of the machine.

At the endof an operation aboutthe sole margin of the shoe, an automatic stop mechanism is rendered operative which is similar to andrl operates in a similar manner. to that fully describedand illustrated inthe cepending` application of Morrillabove referred to. Theoperations performed include disengagement of the ,main

driving clutch for the machine which disconnects the sewing and pattern cam shafts, a reverse `drive of thesewing cam shaft to a predetermined stop position in which the needle is withdrawn from the work, and the rotation of a machine eccentric through one revolution for the performanceof a number of auxiliary'operations incidental to the stopping of the machine. These opera- Y tions may include the further advance of the jack and shoe supported thereon for causing the inseam trimming knife to trim a portion of the inseam, the severing of the welt and thread from the-work, the movement of the jack and shoe supported thereon away from ythe operating mechanism, and finally the return of the jack to an initial loading position preparatory for the removal of the finished shoe from the jack. In accordance with the invention, novel means for controlling and for severing the thread are providedwhich are well adapted for use in combination with the elements of a sewing mechanism of the type described, and more specifically in an automatic machine having an inseam trimming cutter, an automatic shoe support, and the stop devices here set forth. The automatic stop mechanism above referred to, is generallydescribed and illustrated in the copending application of iand 2) to rock in a clockwise direction to the position shown in Fig. 2, in order to raise clutch operating levers l5 to release the main clutch 46,

'48 through which both the pattern cam shaft and sewing cam shaft 68 are driven. The rocking movement of the control shaft 'I4 acts also to throw into operation an auxiliary stop motion for the sewing cam shaft 68 by effecting an upward movement of a locking bolt 80 with respect to its carrier 82 to connect the carrier with a reciprocating actuating lever 84. The lock bolt carrier 82 is subsequently moved first to an extreme position to the right, and is then returned leftwardly to the stop position shown in Fig. 1.

The movement of the lock bolt carrier 82 to the right and'then to the left is employed to set in motion the auxiliary eccentric mechanism above referred to, which provides power for the performance of certain auxiliary operations performed at the completion of the operation about the shoe. As shown in Figs.v l and 2, a link 88 is connected at one end to the lock bolt carrier 82 and at its other end to a bell-crank 9D which is in turn connectedwith a vertically extending link 92 supported at its lower end for vertical movement between two guides formed on a control lever arm 9H. The link 92 is provided with a notch arranged for engagement with the detent 960h -an eccentric clutch control lever 98. The

`initial movement of the lock bolt carrier to the right has the effect of raising the control rod 92 ytoengage the notch therein with the detent 96, and the subsequent leftward movement of the lock bolt carrier then acts to depress the rod 92 4scrthat the lever''l is rocked to engage the eccenan oscillatory looper |22 and a thread finger |24 which is movable in a direction substantially parallel to the line of feed. and away from the trimming` knife, these parts being located entirely at that side of the sewing point away from the completed stitches of the seam to cooperate with .farotary tubular knife |30 which is of relatively `large size with its axis. parallel to the line of feed and with the cutting edgeof the knife passing transversely across the sewn inseam. The inseam trimming mechanismwhich forms one ofthe operating devices of the machine,.as

best shown in Figs. 3 and: Ll, comprises the trimming knife |36 having a tapered periphery which rotates in close proximity to the point of operation of the sewing devicesincl'uding the curved hook needle |20. and channel guide |38. of the The cutting edgeV of the knife |30 is the sewing devices including the curved hook needle |20 and channel guide |38 in the direction of the completed stitches ofthe seam by an amount which is sufficient only to cause the trimming knife to trim that portion of the sewing rib held together by the last completed or tightened stitch of the inseam. Under normal operating conditions the position of the knife will be adjusted so that its cutting edge will be approximately one-half inch to the left of the point of pivotal support of the shoe as determined by the engagement of the channel guide therewith. The trimming knife operates simultaneously with and in conjunction with the sewing mechanism 'for simultaneous performance of the sewing and inseam trimming operations about the sole margin of the shoe.

The jacked shoe is guided and positioned with relation to the several operating devices during the transfer of the operation about the sole margin of the shoe by means of a channel guide |38 which is arranged to ride in a stitch receiving channel and to support the shoe against the needle, and a welt guide (not shown) which is arranged to engage yieldingly against and to be periodically locked against the outer edge ofthe shoe.

The sewing instrumentalities of the illustrated machine comprise the curved hook needle |20 which together with its supporting segment is carried on an oscillatory feed lever |40 having back and forth movement in the line of feed. The looper |22 and thread finger |24 are supported and arranged to cooperate with the curved hook needle |20 in such a manner as to substantially confine the movements of these elements, and the sewing thread to thatside of the sewing point away from the rotary tubular trimming knife |30, and thus to make possible the placing of the sewing mechanism and the trimming mechanism of the machine in close relation to one another at the point of operation on the margin of the shoe sole. The looper |22 is supported on a rock shaft |42 to turn on a small radius on an axis inclined forwardly from the vertical and substantially in line with the end of the needle in the needle threading position. The looper acts to carry the thread forwardly around the hook of the needle to the left in a counterclockwise direction, while at the same time the lthread finger |24 engages a portion of the thread extending between the looper and the work, and

moves substantially in the line of feed to the right away from the looper and needle and away from the completed stitches of the seam to assist in positioning the thread in the needle hook-and to provide slack thread at the work side of the lneedle loop. As the needle is substantially withsewing head. The rock shaft |42 is provided at its upper end with a bearing collar |46 which `engages against the upper end of the bearing support and is provided adjacent its lowerl end with a worm gear |48 which meshes with a worm on a forwardly extending driving sleeve |50 which is externally supported on a bearing formed on the bracket |44. A tapered pinion |52 formed on the rearward end of the driving sleeve |50 meshes ,with a correspondingly tapered gearsegment |54 vl on one arm -of-a bell-crank lever E61-supported .to turn on a sleeve element indicated at |58 in Fig. 3. The upwardly extending arm of the bellcrank |56 is connected by a link v|60 With the downwardly extending arm of a looper cam lever |62. The thread finger |24 is secured to the forward end1of a drive shaft |64 which is mounted within the sleeve drive shaft |50. At its rear end the shaft |64 is formed with a bevelled gear segment .|66 meshing with a bevelled gear segment |68 which constitutes one arm of the bell-crank |10 mounted to turn on the sleeve element |58, the other arm of which is connected by a link |12 with a downwardly extending arm of a thread finger cam lever |14.

, The illustrated machine is provided with means similar to that illustrated in the copending application of Morrill above referred to, for gripping Ythe thread upon the completion of the operation about the shoe. As shown in said application, the thread :linger |24 is arranged upon the stopping of the sewing mechanism to be moved an abnormal distance to the right into engagement with a thread gripper arm which is pivotally supported on the housing |44, and is yieldably supported in operating position by means of `a spring wire |82 connected at its upper end to a stationary pin |84 and at its lower end to a slot |86 in the upper end of the gripper member |80. In accordance with the invention, a novel and improved means is provided for controlling and for severing the thread, which is particularly adapted for use in a machine having the work vguiding and sewing instrumentalities above described, and which is preferably provided with a tubular inseam trimming knife and with an -automatic support or jack movable to transfer -the operation of the sewing and trimming instrumentalities about the sole margin of the shoe.

`In the illustrated form of the invention,`the movement of the thread nger to the right into engagement with the cooperating gripper member to grip the thread is rendered operative also to position a portion of the thread leading from the work against a supporting surface formed on the channel guide, and a thread severing knife is then caused to move downwardly parallel to the channel guide to sever the thread.v This movement of the knife is timed to take place while the thread is tautly heid after the sewing -mechanism has been brought to its stop position v.and before the shoe is further advanced to finish aarranged to be severed by the operation of a knife -blade V| 02 which is adjustably secured to the lower rend of .an arcuate knife carrier member |94.l The blade |92 is arranged'to move along one face of the channel guide and across thel edge of the supporting surface provided by the notched portion of the channel guide to sever the thread. 'The arcuate support |94 is formed with a slot 200 to receive two stationary guide pins 202 and 204, and is formed at its under side with an arcuate tongue surface 206 which rides in a shallow groove 208 formed in the fiat face of the sewing head bracket |44 toward the inseam trimming 75" knife. The 'knife' |92 and its operating arcuate support |94-are` shown in their fully advanced severing position in Figs. 3 and 4, in which the positioning pin l202 is engaged against the Vupper end of the slot 29|] on the knife support or guide |94.

The arcuate support |94 and knife |92-are arranged to be actuated upon stopping the machine fromconnections controlled from the eccentric rock shaft which are in part the same-'connections normally employed for actuating the Welt severing knife designated at 2id` in Fig. 2. The operating connections re'ierred to, include a laterally extending arm (not specifically illustrated) on the shaft-Hit), a link 2|2 secured at its rear end to said arm, and at its forwardend to a `downwardly extending arm 216 carried on a transversely extending rock shaft 2|8 (see Fig. 2). These connections together with a cam-shaped arm EIS on the shaft 2|-8 comprise the conventional connections for operating the welt severing knife 2 l. In the illustrated-construction as best shown in Fig. 2, the lever arm 2|S has pivotally connected thereto one end of a link 220, the other end of which is connected to the rearwardly extending arm'of a lever 222 pivoted at 224 on the sewing head.- A follower roller 226 mounted on the forwardly extending arm of the lever 222 is arranged for engagement in a cam slot 228 formed in an upwardly extending link 230 connected at its lower end to the cutter slide- |94. That portion of the link 23B forming one side of the 'slot 22B is severed adjacent its` upper end and is bent inwardly to Vform a spring detentadapted to support the -actuating roller 226 yieldably in the upper end of the slot 22d.

The operation of the thread controlling and severing devices to support and -to sever the thread when the machine is stopped will be briefly described as fol-lows: Upon the completion of the last stich ofthe inseam, the machine is automatically stopped through the operation of the stop motion. rIhe-control shaft 'I4 is rocked to release the main driving clutch 4E, 48 and to connect the lock bolt carrier mechanism 82 as indicated in Fig. i to put in operation the separately driven reverse sewing machine stop motion of the machine.y In accordance with the usual practice, the sewing machine is stopped with the needle withdrawn from the Work, and with the thread linger moved an abnormal distance to; the right into engagement with the thread gripperl member |59 as shown in Figs. 4 and 5, to grip the thread, this motion oi the thread nger acting in accordance with the invention further to position a portion ofthe thread extendingl from the work across the notched surface -ll of the channel guide |38. The movement of the sewing machine stop motion, the lock bolt carrier 82 iirst to the right and then to the le'it is eilective through link 83, y Abellrank Sil,- link 22 and clutch lever 98 (see Figs. l and 2.)` to engage the. auxiliary eccentric clutch to drivelthe eccentric through one revolution.. Eccentric rock shaft lill) connectedv with eccentric strap le is rocked iirstin Aa clockwise direction as viewed, from above, and finally in a return or counterclockvvise direction. Arst por,- tion of the clockwise movementof the eccentric rock shaft |80 is rendered operative to operate the threadr severing knife as the actuating lever .222 and roller 228 are yieldably engagedin the upper end of the slot 228, is rocked and moves the knife edge |92 downwardly in a shearing movement with relation to the channel guide |38 to sever the thread. During the continuedmoVe-- mentoftheeccentric rockv shaftlll in the clockwise vdirection to impart an additional increment of feeding movement to the work, to finish-trim the inseam, to disengage the jacked shoe from the operating mechanism, and to complete the operationof the pattern mechanism so that the jack Vis returned to an initial loading position, the roller 222 is forced out of its position at the upper end of the slot 228 and rides downwardly intheslot'228.

. It-will be understood that the invention is not limitedV to the specinc embodiment shown, and thatA various deviations may be made therefrom without' departing from the spirit and scope of theappended claims.

What is claimed is:

v1. In a shoe inseam sewing machine, sewing instrumentalitiesincluding a needle, a channel guide having formed thereon a supporting surface toA be engaged by a portion of they thread extending from the work, and a thread cutter movable in cooperative relation to the channel guide to sever a portion of the thread engaged againstv said surface.

2. In ashoe inseam sewing machine, work guiding and sewing devices including a channel guide, a-needlav a driving and stopping mechanism for the machine, means operative in stopping the machine forA drawing a length of threadextendingr from the' work across the channel guide, and a thread cutter movable in cooperative relation to the channel guide to sever the thread.

3. In a shoe inseam sewing machine, work guiding and severing devices including a channel guide having formed thereon. a thread engaging surface, a needle, a thread finger, a gripper device arranged to cooperate with the thread nger vto grip the thread and to position a portion of port provided by said surface.

e; `In a shoe inseam sewing machine, work guiding and sewing devices including a curved hook needle, a lcoper, .a'thread finger, a channel guide having formed thereon a thread engaging surface, and azthreadcutting knife supported against the channel guide for movement across said surface to sever the thread.

5. In a shoesewing machine, shoe guiding and sewing devices including a channel guide, a curved hook needle, a looper, a thread iinger arranged to draw a portion of the thread extendingfrom thework substantially in the direction Vofxthe, lineV of feed away from the needle and across the channel guide, and a thread cutting knife movable in cooperative relation to the channel guide tosever said portion of the thread. 6. In a shoe sewing machine, a curved hook needle, a looper, a thread finger arranged to draw `thread substantially in the direction of the line 'of feed away from the needle, a channel guide having formed thereon, a thread suporting surface adapted vto be engaged by a portion of the `thread'drawn out by the thread nger, a thread cutter supported in sliding engagement with the channel guide for movement across said surface, and' means `for moving the thread cutter 'to sever the thread.

'7. In a shoe sewing machine, a curved hook l'lvI cutter arranged for cooperative movement with relation to the channel guide to sever a portion of the thread supported against said surface, a driving and stopping mechanism for the machine, and means operative in stopping the machine for actuating the thread cutter to sever the thread.

8. In an inseam shoe sewing machine, a curved hook needle arranged to enter the Welt side of the work and to emerge in the stitch receiving channel, a looper, a thread iinger arranged to draw thread in the line of feed away from the completed stitches of the seam, a channel guide having a thread engaging surface, a gripper device operative upon stopping the machine to cooperate with the thread linger to -grip the thread and to position a portion of the thread extending from the work across said surface, and a thread cutter movable to sever a portion of the thread against the support provided by said surface.

9. In a shoe sewing machine, a curved hook needle, a looper, a thread linger arranged to draw thread substantially in the direction of the line of feed away lfrom the needle, a channel guide having a thread engaging surface past which the thread is drawn by the thread nger, driving and stopping mechanism for the machine, a gripprising a curved hook needle. a looper, a thread finger movable in a direction substantially in the line of feed and away from the completed stitches of the seam, a channel guide for guiding the shoe with relation to the trimming cutter and inseam sewing mechanism and having a thread engaging surface disposed at that side of the needle away from the completed stitches of the seam, a thread gripping device arranged to cooperate with the thread nger when the sewing mechanism is stopped to grip the thread and to position a portion of the thread extending from the work tautly across said surface, a thread severing knife supported against the channel guide for movement across said surface to sever the thread, and means for actuating the knife.

11. In a shoe machine, an automatic shoe support, an inseam trimming cutter arranged to trim a portion of the inseam held together by the last completed stitches of the seam. an inseam sewing mechanism comprising a curved hook needle, a looper, a thread finger movable in a direction substantially in the line of feed and away from the completed stitches of the seam, a channel guide for guiding the shoe with relation to the trimming cutter and inseam sewing mechanism and having a thread engaging surface, a thread gripper device operative upon stopping the sewing mechanism to cooperate with the thread finger to grip the thread and to position a portion of the thread extending from the work tautly across said surface, a thread cutter movable with relation to the channel guide to sever a portion of the thread against the support provided by said surface, and a driving and stopping mechanism for the machine including clutching devices operative to stop the machine including the sewing mechanism and automatic support, and an auxiliary mechanism including connections acting when the machine is stopped to actuate the thread cutter, and thereafter to further feed the shoe to finish-trim the inseam.

12. In a shoe machine, an automatic shoe support, an inseam trimming cutter arranged to trim a portion of the inseam held together bythe last completed stitches of the seam, an inseam sewing mechanism comprising a curved hook needle, va looper, a thread nger movable in a v direction substantially in the line ofrfeed and away from the completed stitches of the seam, a channel guide for guiding the shoe with relation to the trimming cutter and inseam sewing mechanism and having a thread engaging surface, a thread gripper device operative upon stopping the sewing mechanism to cooperate with the thread nger to grip the thread and to position a portion of the thread extending from the work tautly across said surface, a thread cutter movable with relation to the channel guide to sever a portion of the thread against the support provided by said surface, and a driving and stopping mechanism for the machine operative to stop the sewing mechanism and to grip the thread, to actuate the thread cutter to sever the thread, and thereafter to further move the shoe to finish-trim the inseam, and to disengage the shoe from the channel guide.

RUTH W. MORRIIL, Adminstratrz' of the Estate of Alfred R. M orrill,

Deceased.

REFERENCES CITED The following references are of record in the iile of this patent:

UNITED STATES PATENTS Name Date 

